When to Upgrade to Electric Strikes

When to Upgrade to Electric Strikes for Business Access Control

Most businesses start out with a handful of keys and a simple plan for who gets one. A few years and several new hires later, nobody's quite sure how many copies are out there, and the storeroom key has made its way through half the staff. Switching to cards or keypad codes fixes a lot of that. Plenty of owners hold off, though, because they assume it means replacing every lock in the building.

Often it doesn't. An electric strike lets you add access control to a door while keeping the lock that's already on it. We'll go through how electric strikes work, what kinds are out there, and how to tell whether one fits your building.

What Is an Electric Strike?

Every latching door has a strike plate, the metal piece on the frame that the latch clicks into. An electric strike takes the place of that plate. Inside it is a hinged piece called a keeper, and the strike controls whether that keeper can move.

When someone badges in or enters a valid code, the access control system changes the power going to the strike. The keeper swings free, and the latch slides right past it as the door is pulled open. The lock on the door stays exactly as it was: an ordinary mechanical lockset with a handle and, in most cases, a key cylinder.

That detail matters more than it might seem. Because the lock is still mechanical, people inside leave the way they always have, by turning the lever or pushing the panic bar. You don't need motion sensors or exit buttons for them to get out. It's one of the biggest practical differences between an electric strike and a magnetic lock.

Fail-Secure vs. Fail-Safe

Electric strikes work in one of two modes, and picking the right one is probably the most important decision in the whole installation.

A fail-secure strike stays locked when it has no power and only releases when the access system sends current to it. During an outage, the door stays locked from the outside, while people inside can still walk out using the lever. Most commercial doors are set up this way, since the goal is usually to keep them secure.

A fail-safe strike works the opposite way. It needs power to stay locked, so an outage leaves the door open from the outside. You'll find these on certain doors where people need to get in during an emergency, such as some stairwell doors.

On fire-rated doors, the choice is made for you. A fire door has to stay latched during a fire, so code requires any electric strike installed on one to be fail-secure. Many strikes can be switched between modes on site. We confirm the setting on every job before the door goes back into use.

Types of Electric Door Strikes

The strike has to match the lock hardware already on the door, and there are three main kinds.

Cylindrical strikes are the most common. They work with the round latch found on a typical lever or knob lockset and fit into a pocket cut into the door frame.

Mortise strikes go with mortise locks, the heavier locks built into a pocket inside the door itself. They're common in older commercial buildings and on doors that get a lot of use. A cylindrical strike won't work with a mortise lock, or the other way around.

Rim strikes are made for doors with panic bars, also called exit devices. Many of them mount on the surface of the frame, so no cutting is needed. That makes them a good option for metal frames, or for any door where cutting into the frame would cause problems.

It's also the reason one of our first questions is what hardware is on the door now. The answer usually narrows things down fast.

Signs an Electric Strike Is the Right Upgrade

A strike isn't the answer for every door, but it tends to fit well when:

• Your current locksets are in good shape, and you'd rather not replace them
• The door needs to stay locked if the power goes out
• The door is fire-rated and still needs access control
• The door has a panic bar
• You want someone at the front desk to be able to buzz visitors in
• You'd like the key to keep working as a backup

If none of those sound like your situation, or the door is glass with a narrow aluminum frame, another type of lock may serve you better.

Electric Strike or Magnetic Lock?

The other option that usually comes up is the magnetic lock. A mag lock holds the door shut with an electromagnet, releases whenever the power is lost, and needs sensors and exit buttons so people can get out. It can be a great choice on a glass storefront. For a door that has to stay locked during an outage, or one that's fire-rated, a strike is usually the better call. Our post on magnetic door locks compares the two in more detail.

What We Check Before Installing

A strike only works as well as the door it's installed on. Before we put one in, we check how the latch lines up with the frame and whether the door closes and latches reliably on its own. We also look at the type and condition of the lockset, what the frame is made of, whether the door is fire-rated, and how we'll run power to the strike and tie it into your access control system.

We also watch for something installers call preload. If a door is being pressed against the strike when someone tries to open it, the latch can bind against the keeper, and the strike won't release. A stiff closer, tight weatherstripping, or wind pushing on an exterior door can all cause it. Preload is one of the most common reasons we get calls about a door that "only works sometimes." Adjusting the door, or using a strike built to handle that pressure, usually fixes it.

Some strikes also offer latch monitoring, which tells the access system whether the latch is actually seated in the strike. That's useful on doors where you need to know the door is locked, not just shut.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will my key still work?
In most setups, yes. The lockset keeps its key cylinder, so a key will still open the door if the access control system is down.

Will the door stay locked if the power goes out?
With a fail-secure strike, it will. A fail-safe strike unlocks when it loses power.

Can an electric strike go on a door with a panic bar?
Yes. You'll need a rim strike designed for exit devices, and many of them mount on the frame without any cutting.

Why does my electric strike buzz?
Strikes that run on AC power buzz when they release, while DC strikes are silent. If the sound bothers you, the power setup can often be changed.

Can I put an electric strike on a fire door?
Yes, as long as the strike is fire-rated and set to fail-secure.

Can I keep my current locks?
Often you can. If the lockset is in good condition and compatible, a strike can usually be added without replacing it.

Electric Strike Installation in New Braunfels and the Texas Hill Country

When we set up access control for businesses around New Braunfels, electric strikes are one of the pieces of hardware we use most. They're especially useful on exterior doors that need to stay locked through a storm outage. The Key Depot has been installing and servicing commercial door hardware in the Texas Hill Country since 1989, from a single office door to systems covering several entrances.

Let's Look at Your Doors

If keeping track of keys has gotten out of hand, give us a call. We'll look at your doors and current hardware, then let you know whether an electric strike, a mag lock, or something else will work best.